Sunday 4 August 2013

South Africa: Coming Back, For More!!!

This trip to South Africa had us complete all 5 continents on the planet. A noteworthy milestone for   a traveller!

And what a beautiful country, South Africa is! From unparalleled natural beauty to great service, people with a heart, with great wines and even better hospitality.

I was there in Johannesburg to be with Robert & Kim Kiyosaki at the National Achievers Congress. The trip began with a well timed South African flight to Johannesburg at the Sandton Sun hotel just around Mr Mandela's residence in hedderville. A Gold Reef City Tour followed by 2 inspiring days at NAC made Johannesburg the perfect start to a wonderful 2 weeks to follow. We flew to Port Elizabeth from Jo'burg and were driven to the 25000 hectares Shamwari Game Reserve at the long lee manor lodge. Quaint and spa like romantic out cottage set the tone for some amazing game drives on the Reserve. On our first day on the drive we witnessed a rare 12 lions preying an Impala amongst cheetah, zebras, giraffe, elephants, water buck, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, and wild buffalo. Africans style Poeke dinner at the Barn by the fire place set the perfect evening ambience. The next day we followed four lion cubs on their trail to find prey and watched them prey a bush pig. The game got even more interesting each day as we watched the big five closely in their habitat. Leaving Shmawaari after a good 3 days we then drive down to one for the most beautiful Plattenburg Bay regions around Kysna. Tsala Tree Top lodge with our tree top pool villa was Plattenburg bays best kept secret. In the middle of the forest on top of trees on the edge of the valley was one of the most romantic hotels we have stayed at. It houses one of SA's most romantic rated restaurant called Zinzi. Around Plattenburg bay is also the worlds highest bungee and for those with an adventurous streak should try the shark cage diving. We did visit an interactive animal farm where we fed cheetah and lions.
A national geographic moment, 
12 lions preying an Impala, Shamwari
Game Reserve, Port Elizabeth, South Africa


A national geographic moment, 
12 lions preying an Impala, Shamwari
Game Reserve, Port Elizabeth, South Africa

Bengal Tiger
Cheetah at the Klien Karoo
A sleeping Bengal Tiger!
The sleeping Lion!

We then drove down the garden route towards Outshoorn where we rode an ostrich on an Ostrich Farm before checking into a Garden Lodge at La Plume. Further next morning we drove to Gaansbaai and checked into Groot Bos - a five star 2500 hectare farm with local fynbos and flowers of all type. We delighted the Protea, did some horse riding on the farms and enjoyed our excquisitely crafted 6 course meals each night at Groot Bos.

Riding an ostrich, Outshoorn, SA
Hippopotamus, at Klien Karoo
Penguin Colony, Cape Town

And then 3 days later we drove further to Cape Town and checked into the Taj Cape Town right across the Company Gardens. Beautiful city, we watched a traditional dance Zulu dance show
over dinner. And then were driven with our historical guide to the Table mountain, Bo Caap, Cape of Good hope and several other great spots in Cape Town. The highlight was a Cirque Style Dinner Show "Madame Zingara" which dazzled the senses and amused us. Well entertained, the next couple of days we went wine tasting at Boschendal's, Shtellendosch, Spiers,  Anura wineries and sampled some great wine from the region and chocolate pairings as well as cheese pairings. My favourite turns out the Pinotage from the locally grown red grape and some excellent Sauvignon Blanc from Anura and some Chardonnay from Boshcehdal.

Boschendal's Winery!
Dinner at "Madame Zingara" show!
"Madame Zingara madness"

It was the last night and we ended the finale with a 6 course dinner at Bombay Brasserie at the Taj Cape Town. A trip to SA is incomplete without a praise for Nelson Mandela, Madiba as they fondly refer to him, I watched Invictus on my flight back to Mumbai and was inspired by his greatness in abolishing the Apartheid movement in SA. A man responsible for bringing confidence and dignity back to South Africa and African people.

Cape of Good Hope, Cape Town, SA

South Africa I am coming back, for more!!!

Friday 12 October 2012

From Bali, with Love



As all good things this must come to an end. Leaving Bali with a heavy heart and some wonderful experiences that will stay with me for the rest of my life. This trip to Bali made me fall in love all overagain; in love with my life, with myself and my partner. It redefined my notion of Love. If every city could be defined by a single emotion,that best describes its natural state, for Bali it is LOVE. It was not so much about doing in Bali as it was about just Being. Being yourself in your most relaxed, discovering the many joys and new found ways torelax and pamper and luxuriate in the pace of time which passes slowly in Bali. It takes a few first days to just adjust to this pace, butonce you're in that relaxed zone, you're bound to be delighted by the surprises that await you.

My trip began at the Four Seasons in Jimabaran, where we spent thefirst four days. A very typical Balinese Villa with our private plunge pool awaited us. Right from the time we arrived, the beautiful moments began to unfold. Dinner at the Coconut Grove on the bed on the beachwas a memorable moment. The night market at the hotel to sample local delights was an experience to remember. Yet another moment worth amention was the Balinese Massage on the Bale on the beach with the waves from the ocean crashing over our Bale. Seminyak had charming shops and we sampled lunch at La lucciola on the hotel recommendation and also went to Kudeta which is a lounge on the beach, both fantastic.

We then moved to Ubud for the week to follow and I was taken over bythe Four Seasons there, An estate on 7 hectares of a valley land with stunning views of the forests and trees from everywhere, this was the beginning of a very special week to unfold. With our own private plunge pool villa overlooking the Ayung river, the sound of the rapidwater flowing was a constant background score that helped me to relax instantly. Most mornings were spent relaxing in the spa the many temperatures pools, putting you in a relaxed state. Balinese dance performances accompanied all dinners at the Four Seasons. We tried the signature Anahata treatment one evening which is meant to be anopening of the heart chakra and a Balinese massage on another day.Downtown Ubud is clustered with many shops selling culture and food.One such place I discovered was the Yoga Barn where I enrolled for aone day Zen Meditation workshop which turned out to be a little surprise. With every new day we discovered new eateries with some healing and energising menus at the Yoga Barn, Bunutes, Soma on Jalan Devi Sita. We tried one dinner at the Como Shambhala one evening, but it was not the best experience. Another notable experience was a lunchat Sari Organic in the middle of the paddy fields with local home made wines and organic food made fresh from the garden, absolutely worth the walk to the field.

A trip to Bali would not be complete without meeting the famous 99 year old healer and fortune teller Kutek Lear from the film Eat Pray Love made famous by none other than Julia Roberts who saw him almost all the time she spent in Bali. Kutek was a sheer joy to meet, laughing and making merry without a trace of any worry in his being, almost a living example of how one could live that long and happy without atrace of worry or doubt. Was a pleasure to meet you Kutek and I learnt many things from the wise old man Healers and soothe sayers can befound in plenty in Ubud and we did visit quite a few of them this week.

Thank you to Four Seasons for a very warm and pleasant stay and all their hospitality and strange requests they went all the way out oftheir way to fulfill, be it the odd craving for an Indian meal after being in hotels for over 28 days in a row, or the Jamu that they triedto find for me or ILAs meditation music they burned for me on request.

A heartfelt tear comes to the eye as I bid farewell to a soul stirring experience called Bali.

Wednesday 14 December 2011

The Frieze Art Fair, London, Oct 2011

By Durva Gandhi

The Frieze Art Fair is the ultimate art fair for the art fraternity the world over. The VIP invite at the fair allows you access to the most important museums and private views at important institutions and exhibits. from several opening parties prior to the fair opening and unveiling of several important works and exhibits of artists from around the world, this makes for one of the most coveted art events on the art enthusiasts calendar.  The VIP diary includes exciting
programme of events organised by Londons museums and galleries during the fair. Other privileges include exclusive professional entry to the fair everyday, use of dedicated concierge service, private club membership and a London guide with recommended restaurants and local travel information.

From private breakfast views and champagne brunches - Grayson Perry @ the British Museum, to Swiss artist Pipilotti Rist @ Hayward Gallery, to the Post Modernism @ V&A to Mexican artist Anri Sala @ the Serpentine Gallery pavilion to the talk on collecting with Turkish collectors as well as The Shape of Things to be @ the Saatchi Gallery London, the art scenen London this week had a buzz!

Dinner at Bambau one night and a French film at the film festival are worth a mention. A trip up the London Eye one evening to get a view of the lit city from the top was worth a mention. The locational advantage of my hotel The Marble Thistle Arch on Oxford Street for the week, was central enough for shopping and other activities. And shop i did, untill i dropped!!!

Mexico, Mexico!!!

By Durva Gandhi

After a long art week at the Frieze in London, I land in Mexico city for a much deserved holiday. I am driven to the Sheraton Maria Isabelle, my hotel on Reforma with a view of the Independence Monument Angel from my room. Next morning i get on a Turibus: a hop on hop off version to get a sense of the city. The city very well planned and
large has some Prehispanic, hispanic and modern influences on architecture and art. A visit to Casa Azul is worth a mention, the blue house, home to legendary artist Frida Kahlo and her husband Diego Riviera, now a museum, has its character from the film on the artist. Some 300 works from the artists personal collection are housed here. A lunch at La Bonatierre on high street Planco, a posh residential area is worth a mention. Mariachi singers at the hotel entertain us every evening. Also worth a mention is Carlos Slim's personal collection of 16000 art works housed in the Soumaya museum in Polanco. One morning we drive with our driver to Sonora market to explore the magical charms of the Aztec culture. A tarot reading with spanish cards with Andres interpreting the reader is insightful of the mythical Aztec world. Here are available charms for cleansing your aura,  protecting your aura, opening your doors to love, luck, happiness in lotion, perfumes, soaps, animal forms all available for you to experiment with. Four kinds of magic, white, green, red and black is what i learnt.

A trip to the worlds third largest pyramids in Teotihuacan is on the cards on one morning. Sun and Moon pyramids amongst the avenue of the dead have a definite energy impact on the four cardinal points. A visit to the cactus plantation of Mage from where Tequila is derived, we sample some Pulte and some Tequila shots and learn how the drink is processed. Cactus shaped sweet bread 'Churros' with chocolate sauce are a must have street delight.

A pre halloween night street art display of large mythical characters from Aztec culture adorn the Reforma Avenue with street food all around, this turns out to be just the bright colored culture day as one would imagine Mexico to be.  

Los Angeles, the city of Angels!

By Durva Gandhi

On our way from sunny Los Cabos in Mexico we flew to LA to attend a four day seminar at the Westin. Los Angeles or the city of angels as it is rightly called is also home to Hollywood and many of its celebrities given its warm californian weather. The highlights are the Universal Studios, Disney World with the Disney Parade and some thrilling rides, a drive around BEVERRLY HILLS, Rodeo Drive famous for Pretty Woman song, driving past the avenue of the Stars and homes of Jack Nicolson, Will Smith, Bruce Willis, Rehana amongst many others in a private Lincon.

A visit to the Cheesecake factory at the Grove was particularly fun. We got to watch Cirque Du Soleil's latest show in Hollywood: IRIS, a tribute to cinema, which was as awesome as all of Cirque's shows we've seen in Vegas.

San Jose Del Cabo


By Durva Gandhi

No holiday in Mexico is complete without going to Cancun or Los Cabos. Since our next destination was on the west coast in LA we decided to head to the Baja California region in Los Cabos.Cabos is to Mexico what Krabi is to Thailand. The obvious place to stay in Los Cabos would be The One and Only, but we decided spontaneously in favour of an alternate experience of an adult only resort called   'Temptations'. With a sensual edge to everything, from pool activities, to aquaerobics, to the sensual signature massage at the spa, to the beach cabanas on the ocean, the pool games and evening activities at the jacuzzi and unlimited alcohol at all hours, this was the place to be.
A fine dining Japanese experience with the open Sushi Bar at the hotel and a dinner with friends at Tropicana which is a local cuisine restaurant in down town Cabos were worth a mention.
The midnight bar at the jacuzzi and the live entertainment at the Melange until the vie hours is worth a mention. Needless to say we left Cabo for LA four shades darker!

Hola Buenos Aires

Hola Buenos Aires

by Durva Gandhi
Buenos Aires, the city of 'good air' in Spanish, definitely lives up to its name with a warm, temperate climate during the day and pleasantly cools in the evenings.

Avenida 9 de Julio
Buenos Aires offers a variety of experiences from milonga (dance halls) where you can learn to tango to some very fine musuems. La Virutais one such milonga where we took a couple of tango classes one night. 
Recoleta and Palermo aresome of the Bueno Aires’ most upscale neighbourhoods and are full of green parks and beautifulcafes. Recoloeta houses MALBA, the Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires).  The private collection of art patron Constantin Eduardoand a stunning self-portrait of Mexican legendary artist Frida Cahlo are amongst the highlights of the museum’scontemporary art works.

MALTA
One of the highlights of the five days spent in Buenos Aires, was visit to the cultural neighbourhood La Bocca. La Bocca is a colourful, cultural experience with Spanish-style architecture and gaucho couples dancing tango on both sides of thestreets. Another wonderful neighbourhood is San Telmo. Every Sunday, this neighbourhood turn into a giant flea market with antique dealers selling silver ware and cutlery, lamps and jeweller.

La Bocca
Durva Gandhi isthe promoter of Breathe Arts, a gallerist, curator, collector and designer

Wednesday 17 August 2011

Durva's Travel Diaries: A Surprise weekend at The Taj Falaknuma Palace !!









A long weekend surprise to the 400 year old city of Hyderabad, famous for the Charminar monument and Pearls; now with its restored jewel back in its crown – The Falaknuma Palace or “Mirror of the Sky” deserves a mention. From the time you set foot on the airport, a butler awaits your arrival and drives you in a black Jaguar to the hotel. Arriving at the Palace portals is a stately and solemn ceremony. The sprinkling rose water, the stately salute and the fragrance of jasmine garlands usher in a celebrated lifestyle. The royal carriage drawn majestically by twin white steeds  brings us to the welcoming doors of the The Taj Falaknuma Palace, to reside in its opulent interiors, dine at a table that seats 101 and live like Royalty! The Nizam dynasty may have come to an end but the pomp, glory and splendour live on.   

Built in 1894, The Palace has played host to the stately and the significant. What time had worn, the Taj has lovingly restored. The Palace of the Nizam in Hyderabad is all set to make you feel like Royalty! Indeed Royal are the treatments. Be it ones at the Jiva Spa where theNawab E khas treatment rejuvenates your mind or for that matter the walk down memory lane with the Palace historian who takes you through the historical significance of the Palace recounting myriad tales of an extraordinary dynasty that possessed a collection of fabulous palaces, insurmountable wealth, beautiful women; of a time when the Nizam was the richest man in the world and luxury reigned supreme!


Worth a special mention were the Royal ensembles designed for us to wear with traditional jewelry and be photographed in them! The evenings are magical when the Palace dances to the beats of the Sufi Qawali. The dining experience is equally enchanting. Both the restaurants are equipped to give you a taste of local legends and global treats. The Hookah Lounge where cognac and pedigreed cigars are in intimate conversation with you. All this and more, in addition to our Palace butler who was there to take care of our every conceivable comfort.


 The Palace houses ornate inlaid furniture, a fine collection of porcelain and objet‘d’ art, royal portraits, handcrafted tapestries, brocades from France and exquisite crockery from the Nizam’s personal collection. Walk through the Palace at sunset and revel in astonishing stories of Polo playing princes, martini soaked lunches and Princesses in billowing chiffons; of a time when opulence was only a way of life!

Thursday 7 July 2011

Durva's Travel Diaries: Argentina Here We Come!!!

Durva had promised her travel consultant, an Argentina story on her return of her bespoke experience. To her surprise, the story was carried by Hindustan Times, Conde Nast Traveller, The Crest and Mumbai Mirror amongst others.

Land in Busenos Aires, the city of 'good ari' in Spanish; the city definitely lives up to its name with warm, temperate climate during the day and pleasantly cools in the evenings. Buenos Aires offers a variety of experiences from tango to milonga to some very fine dining experiences. La Viruta is one such milonga where we took a couple of tango classes one night. In uptown Recoleta and Palermothere are many green parks clustered with several restaurants and cafes. The highlight for us here in being a Japanese restaurant was it had a Japanese garden in Recoleta post that had Malba - contemporary Art museum of Buenos Aires that houses the private collection of an Italian collector,Constantin Eduardo. A stunning self portrait of Mexican legendary artist Frida Cahlo highlights this collection amongst many other contemporary art works.

One of the highlights of the five days spent in Buenos Aires, is a visit to the cultural suburb La Bocca.La Bocca is a colorful, cultural experience of a flea market by local artisans and craftsmen with Spanish style architecture and gaucho couples dancing tango on both sides of the streets in cafes with sit outs. The folk music, the tango, the local arts and crafts, La Bocca instantly translates into a memorable moment of the Argentine experience. We experienced a similar flea market in San Telmo’s Sunday market with antique dealers selling silver ware and cutlery, lamps and jewellery from another time is a must do. The tango show ' Senor Tango' is a romantic escape into Argentine culture.

Amongst shopping and art experiences are some very chic brands and galleries in upscale Recoleta, Palermo Viejieo, Chico Palermo, Soho palermo. Restaurants and cafes outline these areas and are also clustered around Puerto Madero- the new developments around the harbor.

From Buenos Aires we land in Iguazu up north and check into our beautiful hotel Loi Suites in the midst of tropical jungle with an Indian concept spa, Namaste. Next morning we are driven to Iuazu National Park to meet with our ecological tour guide for the day, Carla. We trek up many catwalk trials to get some superb views of the Iguazu Falls. The power and magnanimity of the falls when viewed from the Devils throat is truly considered one of the wonders of the world. With 270,000 cubic litres per second volumes of water spread across 2700 meters of width of the falls, makes Iguazu the third largest falls in the world after Niagara and Victoria Falls. We touch the Brazilian border at this point of the falls. Our trek was a combination of some walking trails, some speed boating adventure under the falls, some train rides, a truck drive into the tropical rainforests around the falls and a rubber raft on the river. The power of the Iguazu falls is magnificent! The park adventure ends this evening and we return to our hotel to relax in the many temperature pools.

The next morning we fly to Salta and check into a boutique, conde nast recommended hotel - Legado Mitico with rooms highlighting famous characters of the regions history. We were in an ethnic room called El Wichi. The hotel is situated four blocks away from the city centre 9th of July square and two blocks away from the culinary capital of Salta; the Balcarsi street. The Balcarci Street is famous for its paneas (folk music); each panea with its unique live music and dance through the evening. With livegauchos, song, dance and wine this street brings alive the culture of the region with some fantastic home grown wines from the neighborhood wineries. One of the paneas we recommend is Cafe Del Tiempo (the time cafe) amongst other Andean local peneas.

From Salta we were driven to Cafayate, which is home to a few boutique Spanish wine growing Bodegas with a breathtaking drive through the canyons of the Andes. With red mountain landscape changing formations along the way and blooming cactus trees; this picturesque landscape is part of vary a Latin American outdoor experience. A night spent on the bodega 'wine resort' with some very fine wine tasting and a tour of the local wineries was the highlight of the trip. Some bodegas and their wines worth a mention are from the locally grown Torrentes grapes. Torrentes grapes are found only in this Argentine region and a re-blend of two French grapes. Especially the ones we favored and bought were Elementos Torrentes Dulce natural late harvest from El Esteco Bodega and the Torrentes Tardio from Bodega Nanni - the only organic wine maker in the region and the Porvenir Torrentesdessert wine. These fine wines come with floral fragrance and a fruity bouquet. The late harvest does not need decanting as it has a very short life in the oaks. Back in Salta we learnt to siesta, like the locals.

The flight from Salta to Ushuaia via Buenos Aires offers some great topographical views of the Atlantic Ocean with snow peaked mountain peaks of Patagonia. We are driven to the hotel, Los CauquenesSpa and Resort which is part of the small luxury hotels. The room is overlooking the Beagle Channel; the exact point where the Atlantic Ocean and Pacific Ocean meet; the southern most point of the world, a 1000 km form the Antarctic Circle. Ushuaia is arguably the Southern most tip of the world. There are cruises to Antarctica that depart from here.

An off road day excursion on a 4x4 Lagos in the indigenous forests in the hinterlands of Tierra Del Fuego by exceptionally experienced professional driver/guides marks one of the highlights inUshuaiha. The real fun begins when we leave the sealed road and enter the indigenous tracks from where the expert driver navigates through fallen trees and into portions of the lake where it is shallow on the shoreline. Eventually after some off roading fun we arrive at a small sheltered hut in the middle of the ocean and the forest where fire labeled Argentine wine awaits us with a specially barbequed lunch.

Yet another highlight in Ushuaiha comes with rowing and gliding through the waters of the Beagle Channel on a semi inflatable canoe paddling our way to Gable Island. Gable Island is home to the only nesting colony of almost 3000 Magellenic Penguins in a region of the world that is a 'road less traveled' but well worthy of our experience.

The train to the end of the world called the "the Prison Train" in the penal colony of Ushuaiha is definitely worth a mention. A trip to the Lapataia Bay which is considered the end point of the world touched Chile on one side.

From Ushuaia we flew to El Calafate in northern Patagonia and were driven to our hotel ‘Alto Calafate’to check into our presidential suite with an in house Jacuzzi and the best view of the city. The hotel is owned by the president of the country- Christina de Kircher. It housed a cozy spa with a many hydrotherapeutic massage options and a warm indoor pool with a superb view. 

Next morning we are driven 60 kms to see the region’s largest accessible glacier Pireto Moreno for a two hour trek gear on some beautiful glacier formation in the snow. Mini trek is glimpse of the real snow treks and ended with a glass of scotch and some fine chocolates; truly Swiss style.

Next day we were taken on a navigation safari on a cruise liner Fernando Campbell on the captain’s deck to enjoy some of the best views, privately, on the deck of the five largest glaciers in the worldUpsala, the Spegazzini, the Onelli, the  Seco and the Pireto Moreno glacier. The luxurious cruise gave many Kodak moments and views of unparallel glacier formations melting into water somewhat comparable to massive ice installations. A truly memorable day!

From El Calafate we fly to San Carlos de Bariloche- the Switzerland of Andes. With Ski resorts, spring in full bloom, chocolatires and chocolatire architecture strewn on both side of the streets. On one of the largest lakes Nahuel Huapi, makes Bariloche and Swiss style ski resorts with snow in summer which makes Bariloche an ideal tourist destination in South America. Our hotel Llao Llao which is rated one of the world’s luxurious hotels definitely deserves a special mention. On an island 20 km from the main city of Bariloche with a private 18 hole golf course and full chateau on a lake surrounded by mountains with signature style chocolate massages at the spa and a schedule for classes from yoga, pilates tango, salsa, caminitoes with restaurant and a chapel on house, Llao Llao is truly a luxury adobe.

We drive deeper into the Andes to San Martin through the lake route and arrive at Loi suitesChapelco Hotel with a spa and golf course. The spa with a signature Shiatze massage and a circulatory hydrotherapy with a private Scottish shower, chill pool, Jacuzzi with a relaxation area over looking the sunset marked a moment in our suits in a Loi suits. A drive to the Chile border through the Andes mountain range and afternoon hike to a beautiful water fall ended in the evening.

From San Martin we fly to Bueno Aires for our last day in the city to relive some of our experiences before boarding South American Airways flight to Bombay via Johannesburg.

In Beunisairs we decide to stay at Faeena in Peurato Mader and revisit Bengal our favorite Indian restaurant in Beunisairs followed by a flight to Tango. There we revisit La Bocca to end our trip and take back some wonderful memories of Argentina!!!

Dancing Tango La Boca at Beunos Aires

The view from the room at Argentina
Los Cauquenes


Saturday 28 May 2011

Durva's Travel Diaries: In Bhutan, the land of the Lamas, magic still lives!!!

When asked about her most memorable travel experiences, Durva shared these snippets recollecting every bit of it, going back in time. 

Bhutan has rated high on my list of holiday destinations. And so on this birthday, I decided to take off on a one week luxury escapade to the land of the Lamas. My expectations were tempered down right at the Mumbai international airport, when I exchanged notes on Bhutan with Rahul Bose.

My itinerary begins with a day well spent at the Taj Bengal. Taj Bengal has been a sort of second home for me on business and leisure in Kolkata with many a birthday and anniversary spent at the Alipore address. As it happens the day in Kolkata is the Bangla New Year and I can sense the festivity in the pace of the city as well as in the elaborate buffet lunch at the coffee shop at the Taj. After a sumptuous meal, I decide to burn a few calories in the evening running on the treadmill. Dinner at the private chambers, with personalized butler service! Early next morning we fly Druk Air to Paro, Bhutan. The serene Zen like calm and the unique Dzong architecture hit me almost as soon as I embark my journey to the capital city of Bhutan, Thimpu. An hours drive from Paro International Airport, I set foot into Taj Tashi and feel Bhutan’s mystical presence everywhere. A Lama chants a prayer by the prayer wheel initiating you into the vibrant Mahayana Buddhist tradition. Swirls of hand painted murals of the 'Dhungs' or hornlike musical instruments, 'double dorjes' or 'thunder bolts and clouds' vie for your attention from the walls. My room elegant and luxurious has a large balcony overlooking the majestic mountains and landscapes; pampering me with a private dining in my balcony. A heady concoction of myths, folklore and shopping awaits me just a drive away from my doorstep.

It happens to be my birthday and hence we rush for lunch to the all day dining restaurant Thongsel, followed by a visit to a monastery to light 108 buttered lamps which is considered auspicious. Later we are given blessed prayer flags which are to be tied between two tree tops on a hill top called BBS towers. The wind blows these colorful prayer flags and with the wind flies your destiny is what the locals believe. My driver and personal historian escort me through out the trip to fill me in with about all the mythological tales about the Buddhist and Bhutanese cultures. At 7pm every evening we return to the hotel for our cultural performances by the fire in a mystical setting sipping 'Suja' the country's distinctive salted buttered tea. As I recount the days adventures at Rimp’s, the tea lounge immersing myself in the coffee table books on Bhutan, there is so much of Bhutan to be sampled in the Taj Tashi itself.

Next day we drive to the Semtokha monastery, one of the oldest sanctuaries in Thimpu. Red robed monks, called Lamas, chant here in synchronized groups all day long and it is a sight to sit and watch them pray. The temple walls are mostly painted with natural pigments and have many stories waiting to be told. Jigme, my guide explains the wheel of life, which is a recurring theme for temple murals and other mythological stories painted on these walls. The day is spent visiting many monasteries and off course the Painting school where the sacred Thangka paintings and Mandala paintings of Bhutan live through traditional practice. I acquire an ancient 1000 Buddha Thangka painting at the painting school; my prized possession from Bhutan. We visit the Memorial Stupa, the Handicrafts and culture shops, the textile museum, the Dzong and many other places that immerse you in a rich culture of many centuries. The caste like Dzongs, with their gently tapering walls, classic lines, large courtyards and beautiful galleries are among the finest examples of Bhutanese architecture. Religion has an overwhelming influence in Bhutanese architecture, be it in homes or countless temples and monasteries all over the country. One more experience to note is a visit to the nunery to join them in the 49th day ceremonies of a certain ritual praying for a life that had passed. 

Later at dinner at Chig Ja Gye, a specialty cuisine restaurant named after the 108 principal temptations in Buddhism, I sample some local cuisine. Momos, Emam Datshi, Churmpa give in to a spread of fiery Bhutanese cuisine. I learnt from my guide that the trip to Bhutan is incomplete without sampling the local drink Ara which was later brought up to the room by the courtesy of a staff member. Unwinding at the Ara bar at the hotel has its own merits! The chef Rejendra ensured that every meal was customized to my palette in a quintessentially Taj way.

Next morning I trek to the Taktsang in the Paro valley. This is one of the holiest places in Bhutan, as Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated here in the 8th century. The trek to Taktsang is a 3 hour uphill journey with some breathtaking views and hour and a half back. I went up on horse back and down on foot. After a long day at the Tigers nest monastery the Jiva Spa is the ideal way to recuperate from a tiring day. A heated indoor pool with a Jacuzzi followed by a signature hot stone treatment at Jiva is the quickest way to regain life. The next few days are relaxed at the hotel with some culture and souvenir shopping and the spa. A Visit to the Buddha point, a large 40 meters tall seated deity the present Buddha overlooking the city is must a mention. His presence is overwhelming at this scale.

The highlight of the day is however a private dinner with the Rinpoche, a monk of high order in Thimpu who came to the hotel at our invitation to give us some understanding of Buddhism.

The next morning is a flight back to Kolkata, Jet Airways to Mumbai. A special thanks to Jet Airways is worth a mention for their priority treatment at both Kolkata and Mumbai airports!

To summarize my experience, I would note that as the only Vajrayana Buddhist Kingdom in the world, Bhutan’s ancient culture, arts and religious lineages have been preserved relatively intact. Bhutan is known for being a proponent of 'Gross National Happiness' as opposed to Gross National Product.

Experiencing the Kingdoms unique culture and sacred arts is an opportunity to reflect on issues of globalization, modern materialism and the importance of balance in life.

In the land of the Lamas, magic still lives!!!
Dawn at Taj Tashi, Thimpu, Bhutan
Outdoor Deck at Taj Tashi, Bhutan
Bonfire at the Courtyard, Taj Tashi, Bhutan
Taktsang, Tiger Nest Monastery, Bhutan
Room at Taj Tashi, Bhutan

Durva's Travel Diaries: Venice Biennale en route london!


Durrva, at the entrance of the Venice Bienniale, 2007



Nalini Malani's works at the India Pavilion, Venice Bienniale

Riyas Komu showing at the India Pavilion, Venice Bienniale, 2007

En Route Arsenal & Giardini, Venice

Subodh Gupta's Hungry God installation outside Francoise Pinualt Museum 
Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London
A water fountain installation Outside the HAYWARD Gallery, London
Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London
Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London
Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London

Riyas Komu's March of the Petro Angels at the Venice Bienniale!
 


Anthony Gormley's Blind Light at the Hayward Gallery, London
A Walk inside a cloud at The Hayward this summer to Experience a series of newly commissioned, dramatic installations by Antony Gormley, one of the most celebrated artists working in the UK today.

Taking the body as its point of departure, the exhibition is an invitation to embark on a journey through different kinds of space.

Durva also shares some highlights from the Venice Bienniale of 2007 from her trip to Venice!

Sunday 22 May 2011

Durva's Travel Diaries: Maldives

Vivanta Taj Coral Reefs, Maldives

Water Villa,Vivanta 

Water Villa, Vivanta 

Maldives! If there is a paradise on earth, I think it is Maldives. For all us-fun in the sun lovers, there is no better place on earth than Maldives. The luxury of island hopping in your own private chopper, the out of your fantasies   room on the stilts in the water with private access into the sea. The snorkeling and exploring fish and underwater world. This trip change my definition of water for all life. The Vivanta, Taj Coral Reefs resort, with amazing views from your own private island of sands. It is filled with all the luxuries in the world that you could ever imagine. With Mandava spa in the house, open air massages on the beach, open air dining on the sands under the stars with waves coming and touching you gently, cultural performances every night, I think Maldives for me is heaven on earth. From the time you land on this little strip of island called "Male" airport, you are in water. 

Your private jet boat takes you to your atoll, your island. There are 3000 atoll islands in the sea that comprises Maldives. Each island is owned by a hospitality owner and your hotel is your private island from where you see nothing but the sea, the sky and the marine life under you. Watching the crab race one evening was a memorable experience worth a note. Snorkeling, scuba diving and chilling is all you do in Maldives. So for all water babies, this is a piece of heaven and I am surely revisiting Maldives at this one friend's property -  Six Senses Soneva Fushi or Gili, hoping to spot Jennifer Anniston who is said to spend a lot of her quite time here!